Choosing a Freeform Sapphire Ring | Jewellery Designer Insights
Freeform sapphires are a great option for couples looking to create a unique engagement ring.
The freeform cut is a relatively new form of cut so I am here to educate you on what a freeform sapphire is, how they get their shape, where to find them and most importantly, how to design a ring using one.
Elongated green-yellow parti sapphire set with baguette diamonds and round yellow sapphires
General information on freeform sapphires
Content order:
What is a freeform sapphire?
Colour range in freeform sapphires.
Choosing the right colour sapphire for you.
Choosing the shape of a freeform sapphire.
Where freeform sapphires are found.
How to purchase the right freeform sapphire.
How engagement rings are designed using freeform sapphires.
The cost of freeform sapphire engagement rings.
What is a freeform sapphire?
Freeform is a term given to indicate the uneven shape of a gemstone. Freeform gemstones are cut with straight edges at what seem to be random angles.
The angles are chosen by observing an uncut sapphire crystal. The lapidarist decides where to cut the facets to maintain the best colour distribution without losing too much weight.
Colour range in freeform sapphires
Freeform sapphires typically come in a range of mid to deep green, blue, yellow and various combinations of all three.
Mixed colours with visible differentiation are known as parti colours.
A balanced green-blue mix creates the famous teal colour that is highly sought after.
Yellow freeform sapphires are also available but are not commonly used at the moment.
Two stone style ring set with an elongated teal sapphire and a baguette diamond
Choosing the colour of a freeform sapphire
When choosing the colour of a sapphire for your engagement ring, consider the colours you tend to wear.
If you prefer cool blue tones, a green, blue, or teal sapphire would be a great choice. For those who favour warmer tones, green, yellow, or parti sapphires are often the best fit.
Trusting your instincts is important in this process.
Choosing the shape of a freeform sapphire
The shape of freeforms can generally be grouped into two categories: elongated (long) or tabular (short).
Tabular freeforms are often best suited to solitaire or two-stone rings, while longer freeforms pair well with a cluster of small diamonds.
Shorter fingers tend to suit shorter freeforms, whereas long, slender fingers are complemented by elongated free-forms.
Loose freeform sapphires with sketched ring design
Where freeform sapphires are from
The majority of freeform sapphires are mined and cut within Australia, primarily in Queensland and New South Wales.
These mining plots are leased by family-owned businesses, the sapphires found at each site are typically cut by a local lapidarist.
How to purchase a freeform sapphire
Most bespoke jewellers can source a freeform sapphire for you.
An experienced jewellery designer will work with you to help articulate your vision. They have a wide network of contacts they can reach out to when searching for the perfect sapphire for you.
Working with a bespoke jewellery designer provides you with greater access to a variety of options within the gemstone type you are seeking.
How rings are designed using freeform sapphires
Freeform sapphire engagement rings are one of the most challenging gems to design with due to the randomness of their shapes. Nevertheless, I’ll walk you through the design process.
Once a freeform sapphire has been chosen, the orientation is experimented with.
Some sapphires look best set straight up and down, others work well in an east-west setting or at a slight angle.
The centre stone is then balanced with diamond placements. Certain freeforms pair well with baguette diamonds or other straight-edged diamonds, while others are better complemented by softer, rounded side diamonds.
The design process takes about three to four hours, from brainstorming initial ideas to sketching three concepts.
The client then selects their favorite design and may tweak the layout slightly. Once the design is finalised, the ring is made.
The cost of a freeform sapphire engagement ring
The price of an engagement ring varies depending on the size and quality of the centre stone, the number and size of smaller diamonds used in the band, and the overall complexity of the design.
Below are examples of freeform sapphire engagement rings at different price points.
Freeform sapphire engagement ring pricing guide
I’ve been making engagement rings for over 13 years, and in the past year, I’ve created more freeform sapphire engagement rings than in all the previous years combined.
Freeform sapphires are finally receiving the attention they deserve. If you’d like to learn more about these stunning gemstones, feel free to get in touch!
More information about getting a ring made using a freeform sapphire
(About the author: Lisa is a qualified Goldsmith, Gemmologist, and Jewellery Designer. She is the owner of Set Together Jewellery Design, located at B4/354 Mons Road, Forest Glen, Sunshine Coast, QLD, Australia. You can contact her directly here.)
