Freeform sapphire engagement rings are more popular than ever! Once considered too unusual for high-end jewellery, these unique sapphires are now taking center stage and receiving the recognition they deserve.

Freeform Sapphire Engagement Rings

In this article, you’ll discover what freeform sapphires are, how they get their unique shapes, where they come from, and how to find them. You’ll also learn how to choose the perfect free-form shape and colour to suit your style. Additionally, I’ll explain how asymmetric engagement rings are designed with freeform sapphires.

Content order:

What is a freeform sapphire?

Colour range in freeform sapphires.

Choosing the right colour sapphire for you.

Choosing the shape of a freeform sapphire.

Where freeform sapphires are found.

How to purchase the right freeform sapphire.

How engagement rings are designed using freeform sapphires.

The cost of freeform sapphire engagement rings.

What is a freeform sapphire?

A freeform is a shape of gemstone. Freeform are cut with straight edges at what seem to be random angles. The angles are chosen by observing an uncut sapphire crystal. The lapidarist decides where to cut the facets to avoid losing too much weight, while removing major inclusions (imperfections) and maintaining the best colour distribution. In other words, the angles of the sapphire facets are determined by the rough crystal’s shape and the angles that will display the best colour. Because of these factors, no two are the same shape or colour.

Colour range in freeform sapphires

Australian sapphires typically come in a range of greens, blues, yellows, and combinations of all three. Green or blue and yellow mixtures are known as parti colours. A balanced green-blue mix creates the famous teal colour that is highly sought after. Yellow sapphires are also available but are not commonly used at the moment.

Three Australia sapphires free-form shape — *Freeform sapphires from top to bottom: (1) Green tabular. (2) Parti coloured tabular. (3) Blue elongated.*
*Image: Set Together*

Choosing the right colour freeform sapphire for you.

When choosing the colour of a sapphire for your engagement ring, consider the colours you tend to wear. If you prefer cool blue tones, a green, blue, or teal sapphire would be a great choice. For those who favour warmer tones, green, yellow, or parti sapphires are often the best fit. Trusting your instincts is important in this process—my clients are usually drawn to a particular colour once they see a range of options in person.

Choosing the shape of a freeform sapphire

The shape of freeforms can generally be grouped into two categories: elongated and tabular, or long and short. Short freeforms are often best suited to solitaire or two-stone rings, while longer freeforms pair well with diamonds. Shorter fingers tend to suit shorter free-forms, whereas long, slender fingers are complemented by elongated free-forms.

Deep blue freeform sapphire ring — *Toi et moi style freeform sapphire ring stack made in 18ct yellow gold.*
*Design and image: Set Together Jewellery*

Where freeform sapphires are found

The majority of freeform sapphires are mined and cut within Australia, primarily in Queensland and New South Wales. These mining plots are leased by family-owned businesses, and the sapphires found at each site are typically cut by a local lapidarist.

How to purchase the right freeform sapphire

Most bespoke jewellers can source a freeform sapphire for you. Gem merchants and sapphire miners operate within a trade-only network of suppliers. An experienced jewellery designer will work with you to help articulate your vision. They have a wide network of contacts they can reach out to when searching for the perfect sapphire for you. Working with a bespoke jeweller provides you with greater access to a variety of options within the gemstone type you are seeking.

How engagement rings are designed using a free-form sapphire.

Freeform engagement rings are one of the most challenging design themes due to the randomness of their shapes. Nevertheless, I’ll walk you through my design process.

Once a freeform sapphire has been chosen, I experiment with its orientation. Some sapphires look best set straight up and down, others work well in an east-west setting or at a slight angle. I then start balancing the centre stone with diamond placements. Certain freeforms pair well with baguette diamonds or other straight-edged diamonds, while others are better complemented by softer, rounded side diamonds. This process is largely trial and error, and I present the best three configurations to the client for feedback. The design process takes about three to four hours, from brainstorming initial ideas to sketching the final three concepts.

The client then selects their favourite design and may tweak the layout slightly. Once the design is finalised, the ring is made.

The cost of a freeform sapphire engagement ring

The price of an engagement ring varies depending on the size and quality of the centre stone, the number and size of smaller diamonds used in the band, and the overall complexity of the design. Below are examples of freeform sapphire engagement rings at different price points.

Free-form sapphire engagement ring price list — *Freeform sapphire engagement ring pricing guide*

I’ve been making engagement rings for over 13 years, and in the past year, I’ve created more freeform sapphire engagement rings than in all the previous years combined. Freeform sapphires are finally receiving the attention they deserve. If you’d like to learn more about these stunning gemstones, feel free to get in touch!

Follow this link to find out more about getting a ring made using a freeform sapphire.

(About the author: Lisa is a qualified Goldsmith, Gemmologist, and Jewellery Designer. She is the owner of Set Together Jewellery Design, located at B4/354 Mons Road, Forest Glen, Sunshine Coast, QLD, Australia. You can contact her directly here.)

Freeform Sapphire Engagement Rings | All You Need To Know