How to Choose a Sapphire | Tips From a Gemmologist
In this article, you will learn how to confidently select a sapphire, based on your personal preferences, budget, and what matters most in terms of quality. I’ll also discuss what you can expect to pay for sapphires according to their colour and quality.
Loose blue sapphires from Ceylon and green sapphires from Australia
Sapphire research phase | Your preferences
The fact the you are reading this blog is a great start, the research phase has begun!
Aspects to think about when choosing a sapphire:
Colour – Sapphires come in many shades of blues, greens, purples, yellows, orange, pinks, and many mixed tones like parti sapphires. Start by looking at images online or in stores to figure out which colours you're most drawn to. Think about colour intensity too—do you like soft pastels or vivid, saturated tones?
Shape/Cut – Common shapes include oval, round, cushion, emerald, and radiant cuts.
Size – Most clients look for sapphires in one of three size brackets: 1ct+, 2ct+, or 3ct+ range. Size and carat weight is usually determined by your budget.
Budget – Set a rough budget and consider what trade-offs you’re willing to make. A high-quality 1ct sapphire can cost the same as a lower-quality 2ct+.
How origin affects the colour in sapphires
Sapphires are available in every colour of the rainbow—except red (which would be a ruby). Today, green and blue sapphires are the most common choices for engagement rings. Sapphires and all other gemstones get their unique colour from the chemicals and minerals that are present in the earth while they are forming. Therefore, different regions produce different coloured sapphires.
Examples of common sapphire colours unique to each region:
Ceylon (Sri Lanka) is known for bright blue and light blue sapphires as well as peach and the rare padparadscha sapphires.
Australia produces many earthy tones of green, teal, mid to dark blue, parti sapphires and yellow sapphires.
Madagascar has bright blue varieties of sapphires, light to dark greens and teal colours as well pink and peach sapphires.
Knowing what colour sapphire you want will help narrow down the region—and vice versa.
Green sapphires, origin: Australia
Choosing the shape and size of a sapphire
As stated above, sapphires are most commonly cut into: oval, round, cushion, emerald, and radiant cuts (square).
Some cuts will suit certain design styles better than others. For the cut, do you like brilliant cuts which make the sapphire sparkle more? or do you prefer a sleeker look with less sparkle and more depth of colour?
When deciding the shape and size of your sapphire, compromise usually needs to be made. Due to the fact the sapphires are rare, you may not find the exact colour in the exact shape and size you want. The larger the sapphire, the more likely you will have to make one compromise between colour, size and shape.
For example, you might find the perfect colour and shape, but it’s smaller than you wanted. Or you might find the ideal size and colour, but the shape isn’t quite right.
It is also important to think about the ring design as a whole when choosing the shape and size of you sapphire.
Left: 10ct blue sapphire, origin: Sri Lanka - lower cut grade causing a ‘window’ effect in the center
Right: 2.6ct blue sapphire, origin: Sri Lanka - high cut grade giving off a bright sparkle
How to source a loose sapphire gemstone
There are two ways to source a loose sapphire; on your own or through a jewellery designer.
Sourcing a sapphire directly from a gem merchant
This option involves searching online for a trustworthy gem merchant and purchasing directly from them. Many gem merchants only deal with the trade, so finding one to work with can be challenging.
Some offer returns if you happen to not like the stone once it arrives. Usually before they send the gemstone out, you’ll view many videos and photos beforehand.
Other options to sourcing a sapphire is by visiting the mines directly and choosing a sapphire on-site.
This is a great option for the intrepid traveler, as many sapphire mines are in remote areas in developing countries.
Sourcing a sapphire through a jewellery designer or gemmologist
This option is the best for finding the right sapphire for you (I know this seems biased coming from a jewellery designer)…Let me explain:
There are hundreds of gem merchants and miners in Australia and around the world. Most of them are weaved within a trade only network.
Building relationships with these merchants and miners takes time and effort. You are either introduced to them by others in the trade or you meet them in person at jewellery fairs or in their country.
The greater the network, the better chance they have at finding rare and particular coloured sapphires.
A jewellery designer contacts their network of suppliers to source sapphire options that fit your brief.
Green sapphires left to right: Cushion 3.0cts, Oval 3.2cts, Cushion 2.3cts
How to view a sapphire in person
Not all sapphires are created equal. Here’s how to assess one properly:
Lighting
Sapphires look different in various lighting conditions. Always view them in natural daylight as well as shop lighting. A stone that looks vivid under artificial light may appear dull in daylight.
Try It On
View the sapphire in a ring holder or on your hand to get a better sense of size.
Cut quality
Look at the sapphire’s shape and overall symmetry. Some sapphires are hand-cut and may have uneven edges.
Then, examine the stone from above:
Does it sparkle evenly across the whole surface?
Is there a patch in the middle where the light falls through and you can see straight through the stone? This is called ‘windowing’ and usually indicates the stone is cut too shallow. (See blue sapphire comparison image above)
A well-cut sapphire will reflect light back up toward the viewer, making it bright and sparkly.
Trust Your Eye
Most importantly—do you love the sapphire?
Even without formal training, most people can instinctively tell when a gemstone feels “right.”
If the stone excites you when you see it, trust that feeling. If you’re unsure or don’t feel drawn to it, it’s likely not the right one for you.
How much do loose sapphires cost?
Sapphire prices vary depending on:
Colour and tone
Origin
Internal clarity
Cut quality
Carat weight
To give you a rough idea of what to expect to pay for a loose sapphire, here’s a chart comparing prices for blue, green and lower quality sapphires.
Green sapphire and blue sapphire price chart. Amounts are in AUD and are an indication only.
Choosing the right sapphire doesn't need to be overwhelming. Once you understand the basics—like colour, shape, size, and what affects quality—you'll feel more confident in your decision. The best advice is to trust your eye and work with a jeweller who can guide you through the process and source stones from reliable suppliers.
Contact us if you’d like to know more about sourcing a loose sapphire.
