Interview | Jewellery Designer Lisa Clune

In this interview, I speak with Lisa Clune, the founder of independent jewellery brand, Set Together Jewellery, a seasoned gemmologist, goldsmith, and jewellery designer with over a decade of industry experience.

Known for her passion for all kinds of design, Lisa has built a reputation for creating timeless, bespoke jewellery that reflect her expertise and creative vision.

From her intricate knowledge of gemstones to her mastery of traditional goldsmithing techniques, Lisa shares insights into the journey that has shaped her work and the ethos behind her brand.

Jewellery Designer Lisa Clune

What led you on the path to becoming a jewellery designer?

As a kid, I always loved gemstones, gold and the idea of treasure. I was obsessed with all things ancient Egypt because of how much gold they had. I guess that was where the seed was planted so to speak.

How did you become a jewellery designer?

I studied jewellery design and manufacturing at the Peter Minturn Goldsmithing and Design school in Auckland, NZ.

Then I worked as a bench jeweller in Melbourne for 8 years and on the side I designed engagement rings, wedding rings and other jewellery for friends and friends of friends.

What current trends do you see influencing the jewellery industry?

Just like in any type of fashion, trends start on the red carpet. Selena Gomez received a marquise diamond engagement ring, you can expect to see more of these in the streets.

After years of thin jewellery being in fashion, think layered looks with lots of fine chains and small delicate pendants as well as stacker rings. Now bold is back in fashion, chunky heavy and bold jewellery.

Yellow gold is also becoming more fashionable.

How do you handle challenges during the design process?

Any design process is a problem-solving journey, I ask myself will that work? How could that look better? An idea in your mind might seem right, but once it’s sketched, you can see problems here and there, I constantly tweak a design it until it looks right.

The more thought I put into a design, the better the outcome.

Antique Style Jewellery Design

How do you source ethical and sustainable materials?

Because gold is so expensive, jewellers have always worked with almost zero waste. In terms of the gemstone side of the business, coloured gems are usually found in mines operated by local family’s dotted around the world. I like to go direct to the source when sourcing coloured gemstones, so I can see first-hand where the gems are from.

For diamonds, that industry is controlled and managed by DeBeers, they created the Kimberley Process Certification Scheme which regulates the trade of rough diamonds, ensuring they are conflict free.

They are also using block chain technology to track each diamond from the mine to the jewellery store.

How do you maintain a consistent design theme in your stock pieces?

I don’t consciously try to stick to a theme, it’s more a matter of creating and being true to what I think looks cool, now that I have made so many pieces, I can see a theme to my work. It’s like an extension of my personality and style, which if you visited my home you’ll see that it all ties in. Its kind of Mid Century Modern or maybe Retro-traditional? I love straight lines and if my designs have curvy silhouettes, those pieces are chunky and heavy, not fine and dainty.

Does tradition play in your work?

The manufacturing and foundations of my work are very traditional, I don’t go too far out of the box, just as close to the edge as possible. I sense that traditional essence can’t be avoided due to my training which is heavily engrained.

Do you often experiment with new jewellery designs?

Yes, all the time, with lots and lots of sketches, I am constantly scribbling, if there is a piece of paper, even a receipt nearby, there will be a jewellery sketch on it.

I even wake up thinking of design ideas, which is kind of annoying at times.

How do you evaluate the quality of a gemstone?

I look at gemstones through a loupe to observe any inclusions, I look at the size and type of the inclusions and if they are reaching the surface or not, I check the polish, brightness and cut and of course how good is the colour and colour distribution is.

For diamonds, I read their certificate, all the info for diamonds are written and certified which makes them easier to evaluate.

How do you determine a design’s scale and proportion?

I use a few different techniques to determine the correct proportions depending on what I am designing, one way is to arrange loose gemstones on a tray to see if the sizes work together or not.

I also draw designs to scale at a 2:1 ratio, anything out of proportion will be seen in the final drawing. Every design, whether it is symmetrical or asymmetrical and depending on the gemstone shape and colour has particular proportional rules it should follow, anyone can pick up if a design is slightly off or not, knowing how to fix it is another story.

What is your favourite jewellery item you have created?

I have a soft spot for a coffee machine ring I made when I was 19. It’s my favourite because it was such an endeavour to create with the limited experience I had.

It was also the piece that got me such a good job when I moved to Melbourne, in a way I owe my career to that piece.

Do you research historical jewellery influences?

Yes, I love art history and jewellery history; it ties in with ancient cultures as well as other artistic mediums like furniture design and architecture. I read lost of books on those subjects as well as ancient jewellery techniques - which haven’t changed all that much - I also have photographic collection books from impactful jewellers like Fabergé and Cartier.

How do you set and meet client expectations?

The expectation is set with the final design, to meet these expectations I craft the piece exactly to the design so there is no room for error.

How do you manage production challenges?

I’m lucky that I don’t really have productions challenges due to the fact that everything is made inhouse. Each step is moved to the next phase once it is up to standard.

How do you stay creative under pressure?

I am not creative under pressure, I have my daily routine down to a fine art and I try not to procrastinate in order to not put myself under pressure, which helps me keep the creative flame alive.

How do you ensure your designs remain timeless?

A timeless design firstly has to be well made so it lasts, then it needs to be proportional along with classical elements. There are classical elements in every era that are timeless, I try to blend in my own style with those classical elements.

I believe any beautiful well thought out design will remain timeless across all mediums.

How do you handle revisions requested by clients?

With respect and understanding, it’s important to me that my clientele love their jewellery, if they want revisions, I listen carefully to make sure I deliver what they request.

How do you ensure your pieces are comfortable for daily wear?

The main reason a ring might not be comfortable is because of sharp edges, I slightly round off the inside edge of rings.

High-set rings can also be uncomfortable, so I have a set height I don’t go above when creating rings.

Do you see the future of jewellery design evolving?

Yes I do, the tools used to design jewellery are changing, I suppose AI will be integrated somehow into the design process, it’ll be interesting to see how all that evolves.

Already with technology a person doesn’t even need to walk into a jewellery store to design a bespoke ring, I couldn’t have imagined that when I first became a jeweller.

Cad as well has sped up the manufacturing process, who know what else will happen.

To contact Lisa directly, you can email her by following this link

View more of Lisa’s jewellery creations here